Have the Pope Bless Your Marriage—In Person!

This is my daughter, Gracie and her husband, John. The guy in white is Pope Francis. The blond photo bomber is another bride, probably named Hilde or Inge, but we'll never know. This can only be a picture of one thing—a Sposi Novelli (new spouses) blessing!

The Sposi Novelli blessing is a special blessing given by the Pope to newlywed couples. The custom is believed to have started during the reign of Pope Pius XII.

Wondering how to get one? Do you need friends in high places? Lots of money to bribe the Swiss Guards? Olympic track skills as you hurdle the barriers in your wedding gown and rush the Pope? Maybe. This is Italy we're talking about.

Actually, no! All you need is a ticket. And it's free! You—yes, you—could get a photo just like this someday. Suitable for framing. Read on.

Before your trip

—Plan a honeymoon stop in Rome. It needs to be within two months of your wedding date. This being Italy, there is an outside chance that you'd still get in even if you go a bit beyond that time frame. You can always ask. Auguri!

—Contact the Pontifical North American College, which employs lots of people who understand English. They will generate free tickets for you for a Wednesday papal audience and tell you what to bring. This will include your ID, sacramental marriage certificate, and a copy of their confirmation email.

—The day before the papal audience, between 3-6 pm, you go to their office in Rome. ALERT: It is not located at the North American College! (Which is just so Rome.) It is near the Trevi Fountain at Via dell’Umiltà 30. Directions below.* When you arrive at their front door, call extension 6821 or (011.39) 06.6900.1821.  Bring your confirmation letter. There they will give you your tickets and instructions on what to do at the audience.

Day of

—Dress up in your wedding clothes. Please. Forget about the travel wrinkles. Don't tell me you don't want to "lug your dress around." Be advised that if you skip this you at least have to wear something similar to wedding clothes—like some lame white sundress —or you might not get in. But really—this is your one big chance to walk around Rome looking your most fabulous. Take it.

—Go to St. Peter's. The audience will be either out front in the piazza or inside in Paul VI audience hall.

—Show your tickets at the door. You should be escorted to a special section (reparto speciale). When the Pope is done preaching to the multitude, he will bless the new spouses.

—Go up and meet him. The new spouses are called up first! Boo-yeah!

Tips

—Ask your airline if you may "carry on" your wedding gown so you don't have to check it and risk damage. They may even hang it up for you.

—If it is a hot day and the audience is outside, bring an umbrella. There is no shade in St. Peter's Square. Wedding clothes + Roman sun = you now understand why Italians yell a lot.

—Expect chaos. Whoever gets to the Pope first will be able to touch him, talk to him, and, if you are Gracie and John above, try to switch hats with him. If you are my daughter Molly and her husband, Frank, you will have no such luck. You will get there early and sit up front only to find out that the guard decides to file couples up starting from the BACK. This is like the parable of the people who went to work in the vineyard at the eleventh hour—only they got paid MORE than the ones who sweated through the whole day. But don't go late on purpose. Next time, the guard might start in the front.

—How do I put this delicately: push and shove. To have a prayer of getting near the Pope, you will need to forget everything your mother told you about "waiting your turn" and "not throwing people off you." This is Italy. (Must I keep reminding you?) Nobody takes a number. You jostle your way to the front of a cheese counter or you starve to death. Likewise, you jostle your way through a papal crowd or your photo op goes up in smoke. You might get a split second to grab the Pope's hands, as Molly and Frank did, but you won't get pictures.

—Get pictures from L'Osservatore Romano. They snap away at every papal event. They hand out cards with info about where their office is. After the event, you can go buy your photos.

—Switch hats! This is not a Sposi Novelli tradition per se, but it is a custom to try to switch hats with the Pope if you happen to be standing right in front of him. You can buy one at Gammarelli, the Papal tailor. Unfortunately, John prepared for this a few years too early. His hat was designed for Pope Benedict and was too big for Pope Francis. The Pope's aide would not let him switch, though the Pope himself was game, "For me is okay, but he say no."

A final tip from Frank:

Molly and Frank at St. Peter's

—"Enjoy the day! Walk around Rome in your wedding clothes. People on the streets will look at you and wonder what is going on. Little girls will stare with joyful wonder. Priests and bishops will smile knowingly and congratulate you. Congratulations on your Marriage in Christ!"

* Directions: From the Trevi Fountain, facing it, look to the left and you will see the store “Giorgio”.  Take the street to the left of the store, called Via Delle Muratte.  Then, take the first left (after “Blue Ice”) onto Via Delle Vergini (the street sign is difficult to see).

Follow Via Delle Vergini until you see the street Via Dell’Umiltà.  Take a left onto Via Dell’Umiltà.  On your right you will shortly see a large door with an arch over it, # 30 (not 30a or 30b).  There is a plaque that says “The Pontifical North American College.”  That is it!